Thoughts on a Ruger heavy barrel 10/22 build

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  • Hookeye

    Grandmaster
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    Dec 19, 2011
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    armpit of the midwest
    The rifle wears its original stock. It's what they call a "finger-groove sporter" with factory checkering.
    They made 'em from '66 to '71.
    I slapped a Williams peep set on it to match my dad's finger-groove .44 mag (non checkered).
    Looks like you can get a "finish yourself" smooth fingergroove without the front swivel inlet from

    Finger Groove Stock Blank

    I have seen some clean smooth fingergroove 10/22 stocks for sale (originals) and even a checkered (beat to heck).
    They were not cheap ($300 and up).

    Heck there's a swivel set for an original stock, NOS............on an auction site........for $160!

    I do think a redish toned new style smooth sporter stock, with a stainless bbl/action............that'd be so cool!
     

    ghitch75

    livin' in the sticks
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    Dec 21, 2009
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    Greene County
    this will shoot one ragged hole from zero to a 100y.....Kidd light weight barrel and other goody's.....

    1oq7uu.jpg
     

    gregkl

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    Apr 8, 2012
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    Bloomington
    The rifle wears its original stock. It's what they call a "finger-groove sporter" with factory checkering.
    They made 'em from '66 to '71.
    I slapped a Williams peep set on it to match my dad's finger-groove .44 mag (non checkered).
    Looks like you can get a "finish yourself" smooth fingergroove without the front swivel inlet from

    Finger Groove Stock Blank

    I have seen some clean smooth fingergroove 10/22 stocks for sale (originals) and even a checkered (beat to heck).
    They were not cheap ($300 and up).

    Heck there's a swivel set for an original stock, NOS............on an auction site........for $160!

    I do think a redish toned new style smooth sporter stock, with a stainless bbl/action............that'd be so cool!

    Hookeye, thanks for the link! This may be what I am looking for. I e-mailed them with some questions. Maybe you can answer one of them. What is meant by "without the front swivel inlet"? I can add swivels front and rear for a sling, can't I?
     

    Hookeye

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    Dec 19, 2011
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    armpit of the midwest
    The Ruger original fingergroove sporters did not run a "standard" front swivel.
    That big front pc was inletted into the stock.

    c60eeaf291e8330c6c2c5a2efc0db82c.jpg


    The stock URS supplies will allow for regular swivel studs.
    Considering the cost of the old system, if you can find them.............the URS stock is the way to go.

    And with regular studs you can use a Harris bipod :)

    The old swivels are cool, but not very practical, for all around use or even making a repro. If I find a clean used SS 10/22 at a bargain price I'll slap it in a URS stock, put in regular swivel studs and scope it :)

    $T2eC16R,!yYFIcQrCh1MBScRj8Jh1w~~60_57.JPG
     
    Last edited:

    gregkl

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    The Ruger original fingergroove sporters did not run a "standard" front swivel.
    That big front pc was inletted into the stock.



    The stock URS supplies will allow for regular swivel studs.
    Considering the cost of the old system, if you can find them.............the URS stock is the way to go.

    And with regular studs you can use a Harris bipod :)

    The old swivels are cool, but not very practical, for all around use or even making a repro. If I find a clean used SS 10/22 at a bargain price I'll slap it in a URS stock, put in regular swivel studs and scope it :)

    Thanks!
     

    gajones06

    Plinker
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    Oct 24, 2011
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    So I am looking at buying a 10/22 and doing some shooting. Can someone explain the this appleseed thing to me a little?
     

    lmyer

    Sharpshooter
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    May 28, 2012
    395
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    South Bend
    Blow back semi auto rifles are notoriously less accurate than bolt guns. That said, if you put a lot of money in a 10/22 you might be able to get it to shoot with a stock CZ or Savage bolt gun. Certainly not win Benchrest competitions.

    Still they make a pretty cool rifle - just don't plan on seriously competing in Benchrest.

    Best way to make a 10/22 more accurate is Good Ammo. Unfortunately Good 22 ammo is more than $15/box of 50 if you can find it. Most is not designed to cycle through a semi-auto unless you buy Eley Pistol.

    Here's mine. Full of all KIDD Stuff including 2-stage trigger, Boyds stock, and yes that's a Weaver T-36 on top. Can't even begin to compete with custom bolt guns, but I did shoot a best of 242 on the RBA target. It's tough when you competition can shoot 250/250. Google RBA if you want to see the target which consists of 25 bullseyes.


    DSCN0230_2.jpg
     
    Last edited:

    gregkl

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    Apr 8, 2012
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    The rifle wears its original stock. It's what they call a "finger-groove sporter" with factory checkering.
    They made 'em from '66 to '71.
    I slapped a Williams peep set on it to match my dad's finger-groove .44 mag (non checkered).
    Looks like you can get a "finish yourself" smooth fingergroove without the front swivel inlet from

    Finger Groove Stock Blank

    I have seen some clean smooth fingergroove 10/22 stocks for sale (originals) and even a checkered (beat to heck).
    They were not cheap ($300 and up).

    Heck there's a swivel set for an original stock, NOS............on an auction site........for $160!

    I do think a redish toned new style smooth sporter stock, with a stainless bbl/action............that'd be so cool!

    Unfortunately they discontinued the finger groove stock. I guess I am back to modifying mine.
     

    10mmfan

    Sharpshooter
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    4   0   0
    Mar 24, 2013
    323
    18
    I have the factory Ruger heavy barrel laminate stock model and it shoots better than me. I use a nikon 4x prostaff in Ruger rings sighted in at 50 yards. My rifle likes subsonic ammo better than the high velocity stuff and it likes solids exclusively. It will not feed hollow points. I would prefer my rifle to be less picky about ammo and I am eventually gonna trade out the trigger for a better one, however,it's still a good shooting rifle. If I ever build a 10/22 it will look a lot like Ruger's tactical model with the hogue stock, but with a 16 inch threaded tactical solutions barrel and an aftermarket trigger unit.
     

    TJ Kackowski

    Let it begin here.
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    Jun 8, 2012
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    I have the factory Ruger heavy barrel laminate stock model and it shoots better than me. I use a nikon 4x prostaff in Ruger rings sighted in at 50 yards. My rifle likes subsonic ammo better than the high velocity stuff and it likes solids exclusively. It will not feed hollow points. I would prefer my rifle to be less picky about ammo and I am eventually gonna trade out the trigger for a better one, however,it's still a good shooting rifle. If I ever build a 10/22 it will look a lot like Ruger's tactical model with the hogue stock, but with a 16 inch threaded tactical solutions barrel and an aftermarket trigger unit.

    Very strange about the solids only diet ... have you noticed this with all your magazines or just a few? You can't go wrong with KIDD parts. My daughter is especially fond of her drop in KIDD trigger ... it's made a world of difference to her and her shooting.
     

    x10

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    Apr 11, 2009
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    Martinsville, IN
    Always wanted a BR50 Anschutz..................current pricing..................think I need to call an ambulance!

    I loved my heavy 10/22 but when it came right down to it, I couldn't get that last little bit of accuracy I wanted and ended up with an Anschutz 1903, and that took me to the place I wanted to be
     

    rbsangler

    Marksman
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    1   0   0
    Apr 24, 2011
    256
    18
    Lizton
    10/22's as a rule, do NOT qualify as crazy accurate. Fedderson or Kidd Or Lilja bbl and a Kidd trigger. Some glass bedding in a laminate stock and then it should qualify as crazy accurate. Box Stock? not so much.

    Guess it depends on your definition of accurate. I've built a bunch of them up and all of them benefited substantially from some modification.
    I found that my stock 10/22 "with tech sights and gi sling and trigger job" was......NOT a rifle I could do very well with at an appleseed. Perhaps not entirely the rifles fault, disappointing just the same.
    Length of pull was the very first thing the instructors at the appleseed pointed out as a major problem with the stock "stock", I have replaced that with an Archangel pro stock with adjustable LOP. The other problem with the stock "stock" was the height of the comb for a good cheek weld.......far too low. this was fixed with the new stock as well. My final issue was simply my failing vision, so i added a Vortex Crossfire 2 scope from A&A optics.
    These improvements are to HELP me be a better shooter/ marksman, they in no way can MAKE me a better shooter/ Marksman.
     

    gregkl

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    Apr 8, 2012
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    I found that my stock 10/22 "with tech sights and gi sling and trigger job" was......NOT a rifle I could do very well with at an appleseed. Perhaps not entirely the rifles fault, disappointing just the same.
    Length of pull was the very first thing the instructors at the appleseed pointed out as a major problem with the stock "stock", I have replaced that with an Archangel pro stock with adjustable LOP. The other problem with the stock "stock" was the height of the comb for a good cheek weld.......far too low. this was fixed with the new stock as well. My final issue was simply my failing vision, so i added a Vortex Crossfire 2 scope from A&A optics.
    These improvements are to HELP me be a better shooter/ marksman, they in no way can MAKE me a better shooter/ Marksman.

    Yeah, I could use about a 14.5" LOP for my build. I would like to work with my factory stock to save some money and have a challenge. I'll have to see. I know I don't want a thumbhole stock or any of the space age looking types. Maybe something with the LOP I want and a cheek riser would be nice.

    I don't know what an Archangel stock looks like. I'll go look it up. With a name like that, I have a feeling it's not for me.:)
     

    flightsimmer

    Master
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    6   0   0
    Dec 27, 2008
    3,954
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    S.E. Indy
    When I shoot a new (to me) semi-auto, any caliber, I fire a shot and carefully eject the next round and fire another then carefully eject the next round. I may do this several times and then carefully examine the unfired rounds for any damage or deformation to them. If a bullet is shaved or damaged during loading then it's not going to shoot straight no matter how good the rest of the gun is. This is sometimes the reason why a bolt gun shoots better than an auto loader but I have seen bolt guns shave bullets also but you usually feel it in a bolt gun. Some .22's are notorious for this.
    A perfect bullet just shoots straighter.
     
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