Truck Leveling Kits

[femurphy77]

absolutely agree! except that a properly set up weight distributing hitch will still leave most of the load on the rear axle where it belongs; they don't apply the weight to the axles evenly. They just keep the front from getting lighter. so if you start level and drop a half ton on the hitch, you'll still end up low in the rear even w/ a WDH (unless airbags are used).

-rvb

Not arguing but with the one I have (for over 25 years and several tow vehicles) the instructions for set up has the truck sitting at unloaded height even when loaded. Can't remember the manufacturer right of the top of my head but when I set up this new truck to my trailer that's going to be my target again. Don't know how the weight is distributed but front and rear ride height will be unaltered. They had an ad back in the late '70's early '80's where they hooked up an airstream to a toronado or Eldorado and towed it with no back tires on the car. Mine's a 10,000# set up so maybe different from yours.

 

[femurphy77]

Honestly, we’re just talking about a coil spacer. It’s hard to mess that up. Both my brothers run Rough Country. And right now, 4 Wheel Parts has a sale going on right now.

Back in the day I may have used one or two of the screw in coil spring spacers quite successfully!

 

[Gabriel]

And right now, 4 Wheel Parts has a sale going on right now.

When is this sale going on?

 

[lovemachine]

When is this sale going on?

Guy told me right now.

I’m actually looking into leveling kits for my Jeep right now.

 

[rvb]

the instructions for set up has the truck sitting at unloaded height even when loaded. ... front and rear ride height will be unaltered

That's true for the front of the tow vehicle, not the rear. You can't put weight on the truck and have zero affect the ride height, because, well, physics. But you can return enough weight to the front to return to un-loaded ride height / axle weight. Every set of instructions I have seen have you measuring the front bumper or front wheel wells, not the rear.

It's possible to transfer more weight and raise the rear some, but the front axle isn't intended to carry load and would end up lower than when un-loaded. and if you go too far, you can take weight off the rear axle which is unsafe.

You do often have to measure both the front and rear of the trailer to have it level when you set up, but not the truck.

-rvb

They had an ad back in the late '70's early '80's where they hooked up an airstream to a toronado or Eldorado and towed it with no back tires on the car. Mine's a 10,000# set up so maybe different from yours.

seen it. just cause you can doesn't mean you should!

the load rating and stiffness of the setup doesn't change how they work, just how much they work. though the ones I've set up have been 10k also.

-rvb

 

[lovemachine]

But we’re only talking about a 2.5 leveling kit. Maybe a puck, maybe a strut kit.

It’s not enough to worry about, especially if you do minor hauling/towing.

 

[GLOCKMAN23C]

Check 4wheel parts or skyjacker. Both appear to be about the same cost.

 

[63PGP]

I'm not a Dodge person but doing a quick search I see lots of links to people having problems. I'd do some research before you commit.

Fox has coil-overs that will lift from 0-2 inches for most trucks with coil-over suspensions. This is what I'd put on my 4runner when its time to replace the front coil-overs.

 

[stephen87]

Its OP's money, he can spend it how he wants...

...but leveling kits on tow vehicles are stupid.

Put a block in the front to make it level with the rear, but if its anything other than a mall truck, the rear sags whenever you put a load in the bed or have a trailer with any tongue weight...now you're installing airbags to raise the bed when under load to fix the issue you induced by leveling in the first place.

That's a lot of dollars fixing self-induced "problems".

But again, its yo' truck and yo' money.

#SaveTheRake

You don't put a block up front. Blocks go in the rear to lower. New springs and spacers go up front.

 

[stephen87]

VUPD, if you don't "use it like a truck" hauling tons and towing stuff, I would say spacers up front should be fine. My only recommendations are bumpstops and get one-piece spacers.

 

[VUPDblue]

VUPD, if you don't "use it like a truck" hauling tons and towing stuff, I would say spacers up front should be fine. My only recommendations are bumpstops and get one-piece spacers.

That's probably the most helpful advice in this thread yet. Thank you. Someone I work with suggested doing spacers AND shocks...I have no experience with these things so I want to make sure that whatever I get, it's correct and won't eff up my vehicle. Can you point me to a link of whatever I should be looking hardest at?

 

[lovemachine]

Are you having the work done? Or will you be doing the work yourself?

 

[avboiler11]

You don't put a block up front. Blocks go in the rear to lower.

Rough Country's website says their leveling kits go on the front of the vehicle to bring it level with the rear; upon reflection I do suppose it'd be hard to use blocks on a coil suspension

I appreciate the technical correction...but the overriding point remains.

 

[lovemachine]

What tire size are you hoping to run?

The offerings from Rough Country allows you to go up to a 33x12.5”.

 

[femurphy77]

That's true for the front of the tow vehicle, not the rear. You can't put weight on the truck and have zero affect the ride height, because, well, physics. But you can return enough weight to the front to return to un-loaded ride height / axle weight. Every set of instructions I have seen have you measuring the front bumper or front wheel wells, not the rear.

It's possible to transfer more weight and raise the rear some, but the front axle isn't intended to carry load and would end up lower than when un-loaded. and if you go too far, you can take weight off the rear axle which is unsafe.

You do often have to measure both the front and rear of the trailer to have it level when you set up, but not the truck.

-rvb



seen it. just cause you can doesn't mean you should!

the load rating and stiffness of the setup doesn't change how they work, just how much they work. though the ones I've set up have been 10k also.

-rvb

I was a little off on my recollection and realized it on the way home away from a keyboard. Your relative height front to rear remains the same, if the back drops an inch so does the front. Yes when you add weight it will drop. Nuff said

 

[lovemachine]

https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/pro-comp-nitro-2-5-inch-leveling-lift-kit-61180k/_/R-DFCW-61180K

That’ll get you 35” tires. And includes bump stop extensions, and front and rear spacers.

 

[lovemachine]

https://www.roughcountry.com/dodge-front-leveling-lift-kit-30300.html

 

[williamsburg]

I've been looking to level my Ram as well. These were suggested to me

https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/bilst...e-shock-absorber-24-187367/_/R-BBGL-24-187367

I've been told by others that some of the level/lift options cause the control arms to wear out.

 

[VUPDblue]

I've been looking to level my Ram as well. These were suggested to me

https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/bilst...e-shock-absorber-24-187367/_/R-BBGL-24-187367

I've been told by others that some of the level/lift options cause the control arms to wear out.

OK cool. What's the pro/con of using something like that versus using spacers?

 

[williamsburg]

OK cool. What's the pro/con of using something like that versus using spacers?

This may help

https://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=168422

Here are the cons of using spacers rather than Bilsteins:

• You are not replacing the front shocks (struts). Therefore your ride quality will be the same if not worse than stock. The reason it could be worse is because now the strut is being used at a different angle (therefore a different rate) than what it was tuned for. Are most people going to notice that difference? No, I’m just giving you the heads up that it is a possibility.
• Because the spacer is simply installed on top of the factory strut the entire strut assembly is now too long when fully extended. This will put your control arms and CV shafts at steeper angles which can be harder on CV shaft joints, ball joints, and tie-rod ends. Again, not everyone will notice this problem. If you’re only driving your truck on the street and never going somewhere that your suspension will be fully extended you having nothing to worry about.
• Spacers limit the amount of upward suspension travel which can lead to bottoming out​