What brand safe do you have?

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    Master
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    Jul 26, 2008
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    da region Highland
    First decide who you are trying to keep out. An actual thief or your kids. Research what makes a safe less likely to be compromised. Things like metal thickness and whether it is plate or gauge steel and how thick. Research the door and how thick it is and is it laminate (2 pieces of thinner steel) or solid at least 1/4" thick. Also look at edges of the door opening, their thickness and how they are shaped. The door should have very little gap and be somewhat recessed. That makes it more difficult to pry open. Research the locking bolt system and do the bolts just look thick and inside the door are held in place by some chintzy threaded rod or otherwise. Get the best combination of these features you can afford.

    If a true thief is determined there will be little to stop them in a short time. As a former mechanic I know there is a tool which fits in a briefcase sized carry case and only needs common type of electrical current to operate and will go through anything like a hot knife through butter. Won't say what to avoid giving anyone ideas. Used one quite a few times on hardened steel pins lengthwise on excavating equipment. Just needed to be careful to not hit the edges and destroy the boom.
     

    Timjoebillybob

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    Feb 27, 2009
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    Timjoebillybob

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    Feb 27, 2009
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    I would have sworn I saw an article that said the last foundry was shut down in late 2016.

    You may be thinking of lead. I believe the last US lead manufacturer shut down around then, there are a few places I think that process recycled lead here in the states though.
     

    CountryBoy19

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    Nov 10, 2008
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    Bedford, IN
    Since Johnson uses a better fire protection that Liberty or Ft. Knox, I went with a Johnson.
    Can you qualify what you mean here?

    Does Johnson even have their safes tested by UL or ETL for fire-resistance?


    Where? We have mills that take chinese steel and work it into something else, but no steel is actually "made" here.

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lotos-3...Wall-Plug-2-5-inch-Clean-Cut-LT3500/302035301
    Gets into almost any safe quickly and easily.
    By "safe" you mean RSC? As-in tin-can right? I can see that... because that home-shop plasma cutter isn't going to work well on a safe. Don't forget the compressed air supply necessary to run a plasma. Most portable compressors won't do it; we couldn't run our Miller's on a IR portable job-site compressor because the motor couldn't react fast enough to get the pressure back up on a small tank before the low-pressure alarm triggered on the Miller. IE, the tank didn't have the volume to "buffer" the low pressure & high-pressure difference in order to compensate for the reaction time of motor start-up. We had to plumb a 100-gallon buffer tank in-line to the supply system.

    So anybody saying they can carry a plasma cutter into a job-site and cut open a safe hasn't actually tried it; because they would know that they've gotta bring a pretty big air-compressor too.
     
    Last edited:

    CountryBoy19

    Grandmaster
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    Nov 10, 2008
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    FYI, comparisons of the new RSC I and RSC II standards. It's not just the time that is important, it's the tools used as well. The RSC II is MUCH, MUCH harder than the RSC I rating simply because it's a 2-man team using real tools.

    d7e172c190073b8e8ad3820d95b64262.jpg
     
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