You sir, just need to shoot a Cajunized CZ. You are making good groups, now imagine if you actually had a good trigger.
Well done sir!
... now imagine if you actually had a good trigger...
doddg has a Ruger semi-auto with a trigger that has a fairly smooth DA and a crisp SA break without creep that I thought was pretty good.
I don't remember the model but hopefully he'll remind me what it is.
[h=3]Made By:[/h] | Ruger (United States) |
[h=3]Produced:[/h] | 1991 – 2007 |
[h=3]MSRP: *[/h] | $525.00 |
[h=3]Calibers:[/h] | 9x19mm |
[h=3]Capacity:[/h] | 15+1 rounds (9x19mm) |
[h=3]Type:[/h] | Full-size | |
[h=3]Weight:[/h] | 32.0 oz | (907 g) |
[h=3]Length:[/h] | 7.8″ | (197 mm) |
[h=3]Barrel Length:[/h] | 4.5″ | (114 mm) |
[h=3]Operation:[/h] | Semi-automatic, Short recoil |
[h=3]Trigger:[/h] | DA/SA |
[h=3]Frame:[/h] | Aluminum |
[h=3]Slide:[/h] | Carbon steel or Stainless steel |
[h=3]Finish:[/h] | Blued, Stainless |
[h=3]Grip:[/h] | Polymer (integrated) |
[h=3]Sights:[/h] | Fixed |
[h=3]Safety:[/h] | Slide-mounted manual safety or decocker |
[h=3]Hammer:[/h] | Ring-type Note: could not find any info on the width of grip, but it feels "fat." |
Just curious, do you ever measure the group size with a tape measure when you're doing these accuracy comparisons? Or are you just going by how many hits in the red and grey area? The reason I ask is that even though you may not get as many hits in the red with one gun, it could be more accurate than the other gun by having a smaller group size that was grouped outside the red or grey area. I haven't compared all your targets in all your range reports, but I'd hate to think you're solely judging accuracy of a gun by hits in the red area. The reason I say that is, there's a good chance your sights on the gun need adjusted, to move your groups into the area you're actually aiming at. For example, the FNS appears to be shooting right of center and the CZ left of center. If you adjusted your sights, you would effectively put more hits in the bullseye area.
1. Good points.
2. Yes, I have in the past measured the "groups" distance, but have gotten lazy and just used the targets colors.
3. But, today I did look at some "groups" when I shot the targets "numbers," but I didn't include that with the pics, in order not to have the targets too busy and be confusing.
4. Yes, sights need to be adjusted, and I've never done that, but that will the next step.
Think of it this way, if gun A shoots a 2" diameter group of 5 shots, but it's in the grey area and gun B shoots a 3" group that's in the red area, even though gun B has more shots in the red, gun A is the more accurate gun. Does that make sense?
Also, depending on the gun, the sights are to be used with one of 3 sight acquisitions. 12 o'clock, 6 o'clock and POA/POI. Which sight acquisition used will depend on the distance you are shooting at. Usually the manufacturer will tell you in the owners manual or you can research on their website. Or just use trial and error yourself at various distances.
This will determine where you aim at on the target for elevation so the shots aren't above or below the center of the bullseye.
I hope that didn't come off as me being condescending towards you or belittle you in any way. I just didn't want you to rule a gun out based solely on the hits in the red or grey and overlook the group size itself, no matter where it landed in relation the bullseye.
...3. I'll google about how to adjust sights (nearly all my guns need some adjustment) and take the tools and take care of it at the range....
Simply move the rear sight in the direction you want the 'point of impact' to move. Hitting low...move the rear sight up. Hitting to the left...move the rear sight to the right.
This can be done by trial and error, or use this calculator to determine the amount of sight movement needed. Sight Correction Calculations
1. Sometimes I don't even see anything to screw/adjust: no flat-heads, Phillips or hex, just a hole with nothing apparently there: I'll have to get out the light.
Because HE wants to, it's not about what YOU want.I know that 75, intimately. The sights are dead nuts. I let a lot of different people shoot that pistol and everyone found center fairly easily. You will just end up tapping the sight back to where it is.
I don't know why you keep flipping through these guns. Getting rid of the fns 9l for another cz? Then getting rid of the cz75 for a rami, that you will never carry, makes little sense to me. It's your game and do what you will, but why? Then talking about getting a glock 17 in the same paragraph as getting rid of the fns??? A glock 19 makes even less sense to the observer, as you will definitely never carry one. The rami is heavier and larger than your 42, it is more complex and has more dangly bits that can catch and slow your draw from a pocket holster. You like your revolver, and you like the 42. Stick with your carry pistols. I would suggest a glock over an fns, but only to someone who wants holster selection (moot point for your uses) accessories (also moot point as you run all your guns basically factory and do not invest in them as you don't get your money back for mods), for range purposes the 17 will not be different than your fns, but will be shorter, which is a negative for you.
You get to shoot a lot more than most people through the summer, and you've got years of experiences to catch up on when it comes to variety. I get it, but you don't have to buy every gun you like that you get to shoot when out with friends. You're about to have 2 very different full size cz's, and it sounds like you are enjoying them. I would keep them both. Maybe put a light on the tactical to add that extra weight you desire. I wouldn't have let that omega go had it not been getting replaced with another 75omega, I can't justify two pleasure pistols that are basically identical besides threaded barrels and sights. But I could justify having an old school non railed frame cz75 with a broke in omega trigger and maybe a tactical sp01 (but I'd want the omega trigger again). But trading a 75b for a rami that you won't carry??? Small compacts are just not that much fun to shoot, unless your training with them for carry.
Because HE wants to, it's not about what YOU want.
Take a already man, I can see the steam coming off my monitor just from reading your post.
Let the man do what he wants, it's okay to advise, but you seem to be coming off as pretty intense here and like you're telling him what to do.
Ah, gotcha.Nah, I've shot with him just don't want to see him walk into a deal that won't fit. I like doddg, and he has an open invite to come shoot with me anytime. I know that flipping through guns can get expensive and would rather give advice before rather than after a friend makes a deal that doesn't seem like a good fit.
Ah, gotcha.
I didn't mean to come off like a d**k, sorry if I did. It's the internet and sometimes I misinterpret things.
IF I recall correctly it has a set screw in that hole. I never adjusted them as it shoots dead ring from a rest. You have to loosen the set screw then tap the sight with a punch and hammer side to side to get it to move in the dovetail. They are not easily adjustable target sights