All Things Woodworking

The #1 community for Gun Owners in Indiana

Member Benefits:

  • Fewer Ads!
  • Discuss all aspects of firearm ownership
  • Discuss anti-gun legislation
  • Buy, sell, and trade in the classified section
  • Chat with Local gun shops, ranges, trainers & other businesses
  • Discover free outdoor shooting areas
  • View up to date on firearm-related events
  • Share photos & video with other members
  • ...and so much more!
  • lovemachine

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 100%
    17   0   0
    Dec 14, 2009
    15,601
    119
    Indiana
    It’s been awhile since I made anything. But I thought I would try making a desk for my wife, she teaches 2nd grade.

    UD31s8M.jpg

    hUWmQ4z.jpg

    uvx9Ujs.jpg
     

    HoughMade

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Oct 24, 2012
    35,816
    149
    Valparaiso
    I will try this again another way.

    Before- ugly carpeted stairs.

    Stair-before-carpeted.jpg


    During: treads under the carpet, warp happy, construction-grade 2x...also, stringers were cut sloping both down the stairs and up the stairs seemingly at random. All the treads and risers were removed and burned, then all of the stringer faces were recut to be level up and down and side to side....very tedious.

    stair-during.jpg


    New stairs all solid oak....and level:

    stair-complete-1.jpg


    stair-detail-2.jpg


    Most importantly- tools added to the collection: 23ga micro pinner gun, plate (biscuit) joiner, oscillating multi tool (which is what I used to trim the treads to level in place).

    Oh, and the most often used tool on this job- radial arm saw. I have a big, heavy cast-iron 1968 model that was my Dad's. It will likely outlast me as well.
     
    Last edited:

    JettaKnight

    Я з Україною
    Site Supporter
    Rating - 100%
    6   0   0
    Oct 13, 2010
    26,558
    113
    Fort Wayne
    I tried to make tenons on the router table, and well, Helen Keller could have done better after three martinis.

    My right hand guided, and my left held up the end (four feet long). Perhaps I lifted up too high, and it wasn't flat on the table constantly.

    Thoughts?
    attachment.php
     

    04FXSTS

    Master
    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Dec 31, 2010
    1,821
    129
    Eugene
    Not keeping it flat on the table is a good possibility. How wide is the router table and is it possible to make some kind of support arm to make a wider base? What kind of router bit: a spiral flute will tend to suck the work into the cutters where a straight flute cutter doesn't. How deep is the cut you were taking? I would take at least two cuts with the finish cut being .020 to .030 inch cut. Another thing is the flatness of the board, any bow there will also cause problems. That is about all I can think of now, if solved please let us know. Jim.
     

    JettaKnight

    Я з Україною
    Site Supporter
    Rating - 100%
    6   0   0
    Oct 13, 2010
    26,558
    113
    Fort Wayne
    Not keeping it flat on the table is a good possibility. How wide is the router table and is it possible to make some kind of support arm to make a wider base? What kind of router bit: a spiral flute will tend to suck the work into the cutters where a straight flute cutter doesn't. How deep is the cut you were taking? I would take at least two cuts with the finish cut being .020 to .030 inch cut. Another thing is the flatness of the board, any bow there will also cause problems. That is about all I can think of now, if solved please let us know. Jim.

    Just a straight cutter, nor more than 3/16" deep, so I have some room to readjust and try again.

    I was thinking that putting a weight on the board (e.g. 8# kettlebell) where it's on the table would help. There's probably 12"-14" of table past the bit. It's this one.



    I suppose this is the consequence for letting my ego take over when I hear, "Real woodworkers don't use pocket screws."
    The end goal is a knick-knack shelf with tusk tenons, but I don't have a table saw.
     

    ghuns

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 100%
    2   0   0
    Nov 22, 2011
    9,362
    113
    ...I suppose this is the consequence for letting my ego take over when I hear, "Real woodworkers don't use pocket screws."...

    Don't let those kinds of people bother you. Unless it's part of the visual appeal of your project, like your tusk tenons, then work smarter, not harder.:yesway:
     

    chocktaw2

    Home on the Range
    Site Supporter
    Rating - 100%
    2   0   0
    Feb 5, 2011
    61,470
    149
    Mayberry
    Just a straight cutter, nor more than 3/16" deep, so I have some room to readjust and try again.

    I was thinking that putting a weight on the board (e.g. 8# kettlebell) where it's on the table would help. There's probably 12"-14" of table past the bit. It's this one.



    I suppose this is the consequence for letting my ego take over when I hear, "Real woodworkers don't use pocket screws."
    The end goal is a knick-knack shelf with tusk tenons, but I don't have a table saw.
    Real woodworkers "DO" use pocket screws, and a lot glue. Our products roll down our highways at 60 mph on the same bumpy roads we drive on. I have access to 3 table saws.
     

    Rookie

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 100%
    14   0   0
    Sep 22, 2008
    18,187
    113
    Kokomo
    What kind of router are you using? Never mind, I see you're trying to use a router table. Do you have the feather board shown in your link? If so, use it to keep your piece stable, cut on the short side, move your fence after every pass.

    Personally, I would bypass the router table and use a router if you have one....
     
    Last edited:

    JettaKnight

    Я з Україною
    Site Supporter
    Rating - 100%
    6   0   0
    Oct 13, 2010
    26,558
    113
    Fort Wayne
    OK, I recut them using an 8# weight and being more careful. They came out just fine.


    Now, the mortises - they look like the product of rabid beaver.


    Drilled (with a press) and chisel away the waste. My chisel skills suck, (Yes, I'm using sharp tools) so there's a lot of filing a make it fit.





    Stay tuned for the final result. :)
     

    HoughMade

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Oct 24, 2012
    35,816
    149
    Valparaiso
    I do the face and edge cheek cuts for tenon on my table saw (tenoning jigs are for sissies who like their fingers...and Norm Abram). Sometimes I use the bandsaw for the edge cheek. I make the shoulder cut on the table saw or radial arm saw.

    I have not mastered the router, so I only use it when no other tool will work.

    [ETA]

    In the interest of full disclosure, my mortise and tenon usage greatly reduced after I got a doweling jig and centers and even more when I got the Kreg master kit.
     
    Last edited:

    JettaKnight

    Я з Україною
    Site Supporter
    Rating - 100%
    6   0   0
    Oct 13, 2010
    26,558
    113
    Fort Wayne
    Sometimes I use the bandsaw for the edge cheek.
    That's how I did it.


    I set the router fence for the depth to the shoulder, then just back and forth repeatedly (free hand) till the final cut right against the fence. The should cut was nice, straight and clean (about the only thing that was).

    In the interest of full disclosure, my mortise and tenon usage greatly reduced after I got a doweling jig and centers and even more when I got the Kreg master kit.
    Apart from a saw, a Kreg kit is about my most essential tool for woodworking. I use my doweling kit for end-to-end butt joints.
     
    Top Bottom