wizardfitz
Expert
Can’t beat a ruger, built like a tank. I love my 6 “ SS.
-
Be sure to read this post! Beware of scammers. https://www.indianagunowners.com/threads/classifieds-new-online-payment-guidelines-rules-paypal-venmo-zelle-etc.511734/
Talk To Me About Revolvers
- Thread starter Doublehelix
- Start date
The #1 community for Gun Owners in Indiana
Member Benefits:
Fewer Ads! Discuss all aspects of firearm ownership Discuss anti-gun legislation Buy, sell, and trade in the classified section Chat with Local gun shops, ranges, trainers & other businesses Discover free outdoor shooting areas View up to date on firearm-related events Share photos & video with other members ...and so much more!
Member Benefits:
I have the NM 66-8 Combat Magnum in 2.75" that was released in 2017. Shorter than what the OP is after, but fit and finish for a recent production S&W is outstanding, and it's turned out to be quite a shooter. It also has an improved ball detente lockup system with the crane/frame than the NM 66 4.25" 66 and 69 models have that were re-introduced in 2014. I don't know if 2017+ production 4.25" models have the newer lockup design of my 2.75" model or not, but I think the recently released "Classic" Model 19 does.
[/URL][/IMG]
For all those who will come along and talk about the "Hillary Hole", that's fine, it leaves more for me! But to be fair, this 19-5 (pre-lock) that I got off a member here is really hard to beat with an incredible trigger and accuracy to match. IMHO, a 4" pre-lock K-Frame has a perfect aesthetic appeal and balance for me. This thing is a shooter, and with 38 Specials, it feels like shooting a squirt gun:
[/URL][/IMG]
All this to say that I honestly could go to shooting nothing but revolvers, and live a perfectly happy rest of my life. I also like the flexibility I have to shoot either 357 or 38 Specials depending on my mood/needs. I absolutely love my wheel guns, and as someone else further upthread noted, learning to shoot a revolver in DA will undoubtedly improve your skills across the board.
For all those who will come along and talk about the "Hillary Hole", that's fine, it leaves more for me! But to be fair, this 19-5 (pre-lock) that I got off a member here is really hard to beat with an incredible trigger and accuracy to match. IMHO, a 4" pre-lock K-Frame has a perfect aesthetic appeal and balance for me. This thing is a shooter, and with 38 Specials, it feels like shooting a squirt gun:
All this to say that I honestly could go to shooting nothing but revolvers, and live a perfectly happy rest of my life. I also like the flexibility I have to shoot either 357 or 38 Specials depending on my mood/needs. I absolutely love my wheel guns, and as someone else further upthread noted, learning to shoot a revolver in DA will undoubtedly improve your skills across the board.
Last edited:
Vintage k frame 357s are getting more rare, but I wouldn't say you can't find them.
Wow. I am blown away by all of the great responses. I expected a few here and there, but man, this is great.
So much to digest here, I need to really step back and go through all the comments again slowly.
Thanks to everyone that responded, GREAT STUFF!!!
So much to digest here, I need to really step back and go through all the comments again slowly.
Thanks to everyone that responded, GREAT STUFF!!!
I have a similar mindset about revolvers, and went on the same journey that you're contemplating a few years ago. I now own four revolvers, 2 S&W (686-4 and a 29-10, both have 4" barrels) and 2 Rugers (4" GP-100 and a 2" Alaskan). That's more than your average American, but (probably way) less than the other people responding to this thread. I like all 4 equally, but that doesn't mean they're equal in all respect; they're all different. These are my observations...
Trigger: Learning to shoot a DA revolver will help you shoot any other gun, especially if the "other gun" is a DA/SA semiauto like a Sig P-2xx or a Beretta 92. I believe the benefit will be less for 1911 or striker fired pistols. After my 5+ years of owning these revolvers, I've also found that there are differences of opinion about what constitutes a "good" revolver trigger. My Model 29 has what I would call a "vague 2 stage" DA trigger; if you really pay attention you can feel a very slight change in the pull immediately preceding the sear releasing. I had never noticed this until Indiucky commented on how he liked the way he could "stage the trigger." Until he mentioned it, I had never noticed it and the concept of "staging" a trigger on what I saw as a defensive weapon was foreign to me... and it still is. In the context of target shooting, I see the value of allowing a final refinement of the sight picture just before breaking the shot. That said, I still prefer my 686's DA trigger which doesn't have any change in the pull from start to ignition. Neither of my Ruger triggers "feel" as good as my S&W triggers, but it's an intangible difference that I can only describe as not feeling as "solid"... the S&W's "feel" like they're made from one piece and with the Rugers you're aware that mechanical things are happening when you pull the trigger. I wouldn't know the difference w/o shooting them back to back. Full disclosure: all of my revolvers have lighter springs and have had the internals polished (polished, not filed/sanded/etc) and I went too light in the GP-100 and it wouldn't reliably fire all ammo so I went back up about 2 pounds and the light strikes went away and the GP-100 still has the lightest DA trigger pull of all me revolvers by quite a bit. Which is the best? Totally personal preference... GP-100 is very light, 686 feels like the trigger is directly attached to the firing pin, and the 29-10 allows you to stage the trigger for longer shots/smaller groups.
Range toy/ "I'll never carry it": Yes you will. You may not carry a revolver often, but if you get a 6" or shorter you'll end up with it on your hip in a leather holster.
Barrel length: I'd go with 4" because you will carry it at some point, but 6" isn't completely unmanageable.
Hillary Hole: From a mechanical standpoint they're no big deal, and they can be disabled, completely removed, or ignored. But when I see the Hillary Hole on my 29-10 it pisses me off that it's there. YMMV, but it casts a dark cloud over that revolver that I don't get with the other three... just something to consider.
Moonclips (or even speedloaders/speedstrips): Irrelevant to me, I will always be able to change a mag faster than I can reload a revolver by any means.
One thing you didn't mention is the finish, blued vs stainless steel. I prefer the looks of blued, but stainless is more practical IMO.
As an unwashed, undedicated, uneducated(?) revolver shooter I agree with your inclination towards 357/38spl, and would suggest you strongly consider both the S&W 686 OR a Ruger GP-100. The few Taurus' and Charter Arms revolvers I have fired did not feel as good to me as a Ruger or a S&W. But that could be me, or the few individual guns I have experience with. If you're buying new, my suggestion would be to a GP-100 to test the water (and save some money) unless you come across a good deal on a 686. I think you'd be happy with either one.
bloodandgutsmurphy
Master
I have a few revolvers. They are Smith K and L frames in 38 and 357. They are some of my handguns to shoot. It seems I shoot them better than center fire semi automatic pistols
Some good responses here for you to think about OP.
Here are a few thoughts and for those that don't know me I shoot revolvers in competition and I gunsmith them as my job now that I'm retired. So keep in mind my thoughts are from someone who uses and abuses them every weekend and is inside of them almost every day.
Anyone can shoot a Revolver SA pretty decent. Shooting one well DA is a little different. It requires some work to get good at it and once you do get decent at it it will make you a better shot with other platforms, as others have said.
I always tell people it is like driving a stick shift car not everyone can do it and very few are really good at it.
As a competitive shooter I'm going to say get a 8 shot gun (627 or 929) because of how versatile they are. They are still fun plinkers and are the setup for USPSA and ICORE and Steel matches. A 6 shot gun is still fun and a little cheaper to get started with but if you get comfortable with it you will be wondering what you can do with one in competition and will then want a 8 shot gun(which is not a bad thing
).
As far as moonclips and speedloaders the moonclips are slightly faster on the load than speedloaders. Moonclips are reasonably cheap and you can load them up before a range trip or match. As far as being a pain they are not any harder to load than a magazine and unloading them is way easier then crawling around on your hands and knees or duck walking around picking up your empties all over the range. Yes you get all your brass back also. Speedloaders will require picking up your individual pieces of brass but they will be close to each other not all over the range like a autoloader.
S&W VS Ruger is like Chevy VS Ford and we can argue about it all day. People talk about the Ruger being stronger and yet most of those people only put a couple hundred rounds a year through their guns. You can call Rugers built like a tank but IMO the S&W is built like a Corvette. The Ruger is blocky and not as easy to drive hard but again if you are just range shooting either would be a fine choice. BTW I would say that in the competitive world with the exception of Metallic Silhouette 99% of the revolvers at a match are S&W. Ruger is now fielding a shooting team so maybe they will be able to make some inroads into the S&W dominance.
S&W VS Taurus come on really? There isn't even any comparison between the two. That being said the Taurus guns are actually pretty good and will serve a lot of shooters just fine as they might shoot a handful of boxes of ammo a year. They are no where near the quality of the new S&W's but they also don't cost as much so the value is there if that is what you are after.
Old VS New Quality and the Hillary Hole.
I've said this before and as someone who works on them almost everyday the NEW guns are better than the old guns in everyway except maybe the blued guns of old had some really good bluing.
The interior fit and finish of the new guns is WAY better than the old stuff. That being said there are still things getting out of the factory that should have never made it to the consumer hands but this is true with the old guns also. I have seen way more internal fit and finish issues on the older guns than the new ones. When I do a full competition action job on a revolver it takes me on average 2 hours more on a old gun than a new one. That is just time getting everything in spec and working it the way I want.
As far as the Hillary hole it doesn't bother me in the least. It can be disabled or removed if needed or wanted, and I do remove them on competition guns because of the radical cuts I do on the hammer they don't function anymore anyway. People are buying the pre-lock guns and just putting them in the safe and not shooting them
.
All the manufactures have done things that gun owners objected to but falling on your sword to make a political point just spills your blood and no one cares.
A last point as to technique with a revolver. NO ONE shooting a DA Revolver in competition "stages" the trigger NO ONE. Shooting DA properly is a smooth pull from the start to the finish with final sight alignment as you are pulling the trigger. Some guns "stage" better than others but it is a slow and unreliable method. I used to put a rubber tipped set screw in the trigger years ago for customers so they could pull the trigger quickly back till the rubber stop hit and then squeeze the shot off. That fad went away and no one has asked for that in years and I even have a bag of them laying around somewhere but I wont even install them anymore.
Staging a trigger would be impossible IMO in a defense situation so why even shoot it that way?
Whatever you decide shooting a revolver can be fun and challenging(DA) and it is amazing how accurate they are.
There is something about being part of the mechanics of the gun that has a unique appeal.
What do I know I'm just the idiot running around at the matches trying to beat up on a bunch of bottomfeeders.
Good Luck with your decision.
Here are a few thoughts and for those that don't know me I shoot revolvers in competition and I gunsmith them as my job now that I'm retired. So keep in mind my thoughts are from someone who uses and abuses them every weekend and is inside of them almost every day.
Anyone can shoot a Revolver SA pretty decent. Shooting one well DA is a little different. It requires some work to get good at it and once you do get decent at it it will make you a better shot with other platforms, as others have said.
I always tell people it is like driving a stick shift car not everyone can do it and very few are really good at it.
As a competitive shooter I'm going to say get a 8 shot gun (627 or 929) because of how versatile they are. They are still fun plinkers and are the setup for USPSA and ICORE and Steel matches. A 6 shot gun is still fun and a little cheaper to get started with but if you get comfortable with it you will be wondering what you can do with one in competition and will then want a 8 shot gun(which is not a bad thing
).As far as moonclips and speedloaders the moonclips are slightly faster on the load than speedloaders. Moonclips are reasonably cheap and you can load them up before a range trip or match. As far as being a pain they are not any harder to load than a magazine and unloading them is way easier then crawling around on your hands and knees or duck walking around picking up your empties all over the range. Yes you get all your brass back also. Speedloaders will require picking up your individual pieces of brass but they will be close to each other not all over the range like a autoloader.
S&W VS Ruger is like Chevy VS Ford and we can argue about it all day. People talk about the Ruger being stronger and yet most of those people only put a couple hundred rounds a year through their guns. You can call Rugers built like a tank but IMO the S&W is built like a Corvette. The Ruger is blocky and not as easy to drive hard but again if you are just range shooting either would be a fine choice. BTW I would say that in the competitive world with the exception of Metallic Silhouette 99% of the revolvers at a match are S&W. Ruger is now fielding a shooting team so maybe they will be able to make some inroads into the S&W dominance.
S&W VS Taurus come on really? There isn't even any comparison between the two. That being said the Taurus guns are actually pretty good and will serve a lot of shooters just fine as they might shoot a handful of boxes of ammo a year. They are no where near the quality of the new S&W's but they also don't cost as much so the value is there if that is what you are after.
Old VS New Quality and the Hillary Hole.
I've said this before and as someone who works on them almost everyday the NEW guns are better than the old guns in everyway except maybe the blued guns of old had some really good bluing.
The interior fit and finish of the new guns is WAY better than the old stuff. That being said there are still things getting out of the factory that should have never made it to the consumer hands but this is true with the old guns also. I have seen way more internal fit and finish issues on the older guns than the new ones. When I do a full competition action job on a revolver it takes me on average 2 hours more on a old gun than a new one. That is just time getting everything in spec and working it the way I want.
As far as the Hillary hole it doesn't bother me in the least. It can be disabled or removed if needed or wanted, and I do remove them on competition guns because of the radical cuts I do on the hammer they don't function anymore anyway. People are buying the pre-lock guns and just putting them in the safe and not shooting them
.All the manufactures have done things that gun owners objected to but falling on your sword to make a political point just spills your blood and no one cares.
A last point as to technique with a revolver. NO ONE shooting a DA Revolver in competition "stages" the trigger NO ONE. Shooting DA properly is a smooth pull from the start to the finish with final sight alignment as you are pulling the trigger. Some guns "stage" better than others but it is a slow and unreliable method. I used to put a rubber tipped set screw in the trigger years ago for customers so they could pull the trigger quickly back till the rubber stop hit and then squeeze the shot off. That fad went away and no one has asked for that in years and I even have a bag of them laying around somewhere but I wont even install them anymore.
Staging a trigger would be impossible IMO in a defense situation so why even shoot it that way?
Whatever you decide shooting a revolver can be fun and challenging(DA) and it is amazing how accurate they are.
There is something about being part of the mechanics of the gun that has a unique appeal.
What do I know I'm just the idiot running around at the matches trying to beat up on a bunch of bottomfeeders.
Good Luck with your decision.
If God created anything better than dogs and S&W revolvers he kept it for his self. Not my saying but pretty much true as far as I am concerned. Now I am no expert just like shooting revolvers and that is what I use for IDPA my 625 JM model. There is also a M10, 66 P&R, 65 and a 337PD, all great guns with the 625 and 337 the only ones bought new. Ruger Blackhawk .41Mag and Super Redhawk 454 Casull are both just FUN to shoot.
I carry mostly bottom feeders because they are slimmer and fit CC better for me. I do carry the 625 and the 65 some and the 337 quite a bit and am very comfortable with both. I put Hogue compact grips on the 625 because the JM grip is just too big to conceal well and turns out I like the Hogues for IDPA also. Only the 625 has the hillery hole and everything is intact just like as new and after shooting it for about 10 years it has never been a problem. Jim.
I carry mostly bottom feeders because they are slimmer and fit CC better for me. I do carry the 625 and the 65 some and the 337 quite a bit and am very comfortable with both. I put Hogue compact grips on the 625 because the JM grip is just too big to conceal well and turns out I like the Hogues for IDPA also. Only the 625 has the hillery hole and everything is intact just like as new and after shooting it for about 10 years it has never been a problem. Jim.
I'll just throw in my perspective, as a semi-auto guy. That's all I've ever really been interested in, particularly the pistols with a military background.
But then I inherited a couple wheel guns (Colt Detective Special and Ruger Blackhawk). The ergonomics of the Colt, in particular, seem really advanced for the time period it is from. Frankly, it reminded me of the compact Glocks. Just easy to shoot. Almost like the engineers intuited something about how to shoot a pistol that science later discovered. And the Ruger's ability to make fireballs is really cool.
While I'm unlikely to seek out any additional revolvers, I really love what they do and how they do it. If the opportunity presented itself, I wouldn't hesitate to add to the collection. I would HIGHLY recommend adding one as a range toy. Or 2.
Look around, try some out, and find one that you enjoy shooting. I'm not even really sure what all the options are, but I encourage your search for the right one.
G'luck.
But then I inherited a couple wheel guns (Colt Detective Special and Ruger Blackhawk). The ergonomics of the Colt, in particular, seem really advanced for the time period it is from. Frankly, it reminded me of the compact Glocks. Just easy to shoot. Almost like the engineers intuited something about how to shoot a pistol that science later discovered. And the Ruger's ability to make fireballs is really cool.
While I'm unlikely to seek out any additional revolvers, I really love what they do and how they do it. If the opportunity presented itself, I wouldn't hesitate to add to the collection. I would HIGHLY recommend adding one as a range toy. Or 2.
Look around, try some out, and find one that you enjoy shooting. I'm not even really sure what all the options are, but I encourage your search for the right one. G'luck.
Sounds like my journey several years ago. I wanted to find my first revolver and did a ton of reading, research and YouTube watching. One thing that I haven't seen anyone mention is learning how to evaluate a used revolver to see what condition it's in. With the prices of used S&w, Rugers, and Colts rocketing skyward, it's very important to know you're buying a good one. Learn some specifics about each model you're looking at and any potential problem areas or red flags. Take a little flashlight with you to check out bore and maybe a magnifying glass to see conditions up close. That's what I've done and glad I did. I've found some that I just gave back and walked away from...hammer pushed off with barely a touch...pitted bore...super light SA trigger...cylinder timing issues...are just some of the ones I've passed on. Then I found my first S&W 66 4" no dash very clean private seller....wow! I bought it, took it home and lost it...to my wife...she loves that revolver! As far as the Hillary Hole S&W, I've only got one...a 686+ 3".. great carry gun! I've also looked for some great Ruger Security Six revolvers and an elusive 29 I'd love to get some day.
Hang in there, looking for your first one is a LOT of fun but make sure you don't buy someone else's problems! Educate yourself and you'll feel great when you run across one that's priced too good to be true and you find out why. One of the first 66 I looked had a hammer that would drop in SA by barely touching it; thanks but no thanks.
Last edited:
I found a Model 627-5 PC (5" barrel) for $895 used, which seems sort of steep, so I probably going to keep looking.
What types of things do I look for in a used revolver? The barrel obviously, and that is something that it is the same no matter the gun. Someone told me to look for forward-and-backwards motion on the cylinder at *each* position. @firefighterjohn mentions cylinder timing issues, etc. What else?
There is a show in Tipton this weekend I might visit as well...
What types of things do I look for in a used revolver? The barrel obviously, and that is something that it is the same no matter the gun. Someone told me to look for forward-and-backwards motion on the cylinder at *each* position. @firefighterjohn mentions cylinder timing issues, etc. What else?
There is a show in Tipton this weekend I might visit as well...
Well it's a lot easier to send you some links than to type it all out...LOL
I'm sure thee are PLENTY more our there and even some for specific brands and models. You just have to do some YouTube searching on your own.
So here's a couple of short videos that will help; oldies but goodies:
Good beginner one from YankeeMarshall: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=39Byz0HqUcQ
Some other good points from TCArmory: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lCu4KYtdxD8
One from Personal Defense and Firearm Education: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ejhnnblgqM
That is a decent price for a 627 PC IMO not a steal but fair.
A PC gives you a 5" barrel and has a different cylinder lock up system and different grips that probably will get changed anyway. Several variations of the PC guns out there. Older PC guns had forged parts but most you will see now are the new MIM parts that work better anyway.
The 627 PRO has a 4" barrel.
The PRO 627 is a couple hundred cheaper than the PC BUT the PC will be worth that same amount more when/if you sell it.
The PC gun DOES NOT have any action tuning or hand fitting like some say. It has a ribbed main spring that is reduced power and that is the only difference from a standard S&W revolver.
Most any problem that you would find on a recent manufacture gun can be easily fixed and S&W is good about fixing problems. IMO any S&W deserves a good trigger job
.Here is something I did about 6 years ago. It was a inquiry about checking out a used K frame revolver.
Something that is a little different is the newer guns to accurately check the timing you need EMPTIES in the cylinder to hold the extractor star in position. That won't usually be allowed at a gun show(and it shouldn't be). Most will time up fine empty.
FWIW I see more 8 shots with early timing than late timing which is still a problem but usually masked by a really heavy trigger pull from the factory. Whenever I get a gun in the shop with a 15+ pound trigger pull I always suspect that it will time early when the trigger pull is lightened.
Hope this helps and let me know if any questions.
The biggest problem on a K frame(the ones you are looking at are all K frames) I would be concerned about is flame cutting this is the area above the barrel on the top strap where the barrel and cylinder almost touch. This happens when a LOT of .357 or .38 +p stuff is fired. A little flame cutting is normal but if it is really deep I would pass on the gun as there are lots of better ones out there. This cannot be fixed.
Check barrel for bulges from firing a squib load and one right after it with the squib load still in the barrel.
Check the forcing cone for cracks.This is the part of barrel that sticks thru the frame and almost touchs cylinder. Cracks will be fairly noticable.
Ask the shop if you can dryfire the revolver if they won't let you dryfire it I would walk away.(unless it is a .22).
Check gun for empty and then see how much the cylinder moves front to rear should be almost no or very little movement.
Next check timing this is done by holding gun in normal position(not sideways) and slowly pull the trigger DA to the rear listen for a click( the cylinder locking up) right before the hammer falls.
Next is cylinder lock up, as before pull trigger double action and the when the hammer falls KEEP HOLDING the trigger all the way back. Now with other hand see how much side to side play the cylinder has it will move some thay all do. But it should not have alot of side to side play.
Last check is for push off. Pull the hammer back until single action notch catchs and hold the hammer back.
Now push the hammer forward with your thumb.
If it pushs off with very little pressure the gun might need parts to correct it.
ALL S&W revolvers will push off if you REALLY push on the hammer so don't get carried away.
If it suprises you how easy it pushes off it is probably been worked on by someone and messed up.
A rule of thumb(PUN INTENDED
) I use it should not take take less pressure to push the hammer forward than it does to pull the trigger in double action.Everything above can be fixed EXCEPT the flame cutting. BUT will add to the cost of the revolver.
Everybody else has given quite a bit of good information, but your original post indicated you don't understand what the safety lock is...
Basically, it is an addition to the gun where you can use a "key" to lock up the gun so that it is inoperable, much more so than a safety on a semi-auto. If engaged, you can't cock the hammer, can't pull the trigger (obviously) and may not even be able to open the cylinder to unload the gun (not sure about this, especially in all cases). The associated mechanical pieces aren't required to operate the gun, but only serve to lock up the rest of the parts.
There have been some reports with the mechanism failed, and locked up the gun, with no remedy except a gun smith. Because of these failures, some decided they won't purchase a gun with one, especially for a self defense weapon. Others don't like the look of the guns with the mechanism (look at photos by Bosbar and Hopper.) The mechanisms can be removed, and you can obtain plugs to fill the hole, but will still see the outline on the frame.
As far as moon clips, from my research, it seems they are more useful on shorter/fatter cartridges such as 45 ACP than they are on 38 special so wouldn't use that feature as a make or break decision for whatever you decide on.
--Rick
Basically, it is an addition to the gun where you can use a "key" to lock up the gun so that it is inoperable, much more so than a safety on a semi-auto. If engaged, you can't cock the hammer, can't pull the trigger (obviously) and may not even be able to open the cylinder to unload the gun (not sure about this, especially in all cases). The associated mechanical pieces aren't required to operate the gun, but only serve to lock up the rest of the parts.
There have been some reports with the mechanism failed, and locked up the gun, with no remedy except a gun smith. Because of these failures, some decided they won't purchase a gun with one, especially for a self defense weapon. Others don't like the look of the guns with the mechanism (look at photos by Bosbar and Hopper.) The mechanisms can be removed, and you can obtain plugs to fill the hole, but will still see the outline on the frame.
As far as moon clips, from my research, it seems they are more useful on shorter/fatter cartridges such as 45 ACP than they are on 38 special so wouldn't use that feature as a make or break decision for whatever you decide on.
--Rick
I'm an old (emphasis on old) revolver guy. It took me some time to learn how to shoot double-action revolvers decently, but once I learned, I never went back to single-action shooting. I carried and shot mostly, a S&W model 28-1 (N frame), Ruger Security 6, S&W model 14 and S&W model 66 (K frames) with both 6" and 4" bbls. I did some NRA PPC shooting in the old days, as well as, a few other type revolver matches. I never liked the trigger feel of a Ruger as much as a S&W. The Ruger coil spring "stacks" pressure and somehow my finger never felt right on the trigger. I like the medium (K & L) framed S&W revolvers better than the N frame. Even with today's K frame size round butt grip frames on the larger N frame revolvers, like the 627, I find the larger diameter cylinder harder (turning greater mass) to control in double action shooting than the K frame. With the longer sight radius, the 6" barreled revolvers are easier to shoot well, and since it is a range toy, I'd suspect you'll be happier with that length barrel. With speedloaders available, I see no need to have moon clips. Unless you plan to feed the revolver a steady diet of magnum loads, you might want to consider a K frame, i.e. model 19 or 66. I had (now in the hands of my daughter and grandsons) a model 66 which I shot an untold amount of ammo through (probably 1 magnum for every 10 target .38 SPL rounds) and it never failed me. Trigger jobs have always been common for competitive shooters and other particular pistoleros, even with the older revolvers. Reducing trigger pull weight is the first priority. Learning to shoot double-action well with a revolver will carry over to shooting many double-action or striker fired semi-autos.
Site Supporter
Members online
- hhi7410
- Nazgul
- Gabriel
- papa6x
- jsn_mooney
- JamesV
- Midwestjimbo
- jhopson
- Ted@
- DoggyDaddy
- erasure
- Emerson Dambiggins
- nad63
- Taurus the turtle
- Rafterman
- AllenM
- Tomahawkman
- pitbulld45
- pewpew2232
- SheepDog4Life
- Tryin'
- 812 rimfire
- jbm1521
- Joniki
- gdun67
- pokersamurai
- Brian's Surplus
- sadclownwp
- PRasko
- res04
- Butch627
- BFG
- JayPea
- Tradesylver
- possum_128
- MDpolo
- mkgr22
- bigz82
- x34822
